The spa quarter follows the narrow valley of the Teplá, from the Hot Spring Colonnade and Vřídlo past the Mill and Market Colonnades to Grandhotel Pupp at its southern end; almost everything a first visit is about sits within walking distance along the river, with the newer town, the main bus terminal and the railway stations lower down, where the Teplá meets the Ohře.
Seen in a day from Prague, the town is the colonnades, a cup of spring water and an early start home. Seen over a night or two, it becomes quieter mornings at the springs, an afternoon in thermal water and an evening when the day visitors have left, which is when the spa town is at its most itself.